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Beginners Guide

First, let me say that you have made a good choice of hobby. There are many different sides to the hobby from free-flight, gliders, power, helicopters etc. Take time to decide which one suits you best before taking the plunge and don't hesitate to get back to me if you have any questions.

This document is copyright Tom Laird but can also be freely distributed as long as it is distributed in whole, and the contents are not modified.

If you want to read up on the subject, R/C model World and RCME are 2 suitable magazines to buy to get a feel for things. You should find them in the local model shop, W.H. Smiths and similar papershops.

For people who are far from clubs (and for everyone else) the SAA run training weekends. Check out the Events page on the SAA web site at http://www.saaweb.org.uk

MODELS
For a first model you have 2 choices: ARTF (which means Almost Ready To Fly) and can be assembled in a couple of evenings, or a kit which you build yourself.

When starting out you should be looking at any of the high-wing trainers on the market. Browse the various web sites to find reviews before buying. Check the “Reviews” page at http://www.tomlaird.com to see reviews on my recommended models. The ARC Ready, Ripmax 40, Ripmax Nova, Thunder Tiger 40 and Arising Star are all typical trainers.

Please speak to a club committee member to get the latest views on the current ARTF models as there are new ones appearing all the time.

If you want to build your first model, then things are a bit more sparse. The Flair Cub and Uno Wot from Chris Foss are about the only trainer kits available.

ENGINES
It is best to buy a 2 stroke engine rather than a 4-stroke to start with as they are easier for beginners. Most of the cheaper engines have plain bearings whereas the more powerful ones have roller bearings. The roller bearing ones are slightly more expensive. My current recommended buy is the Irvine 40 or 46. Both are known to start and run with no problems. Buy cheap – buy trouble. Again, however, check with your prospective club before buying.

TRANSMITTERS
For a transmitter, the current favourite is the Futaba 6EXA (6 model memory) including servos, receiver, battery charger and ni-cads for about £120.

 The JR652 and FF6 have 2 modes - aeroplane and helicopter, whereas the JR388 / 3810 and FF8 have 3 modes - aeroplane, glider and helicopter.

 Also very good value is the Hitec Focus 4, without crystal or battery but INCLUDING trainer lead. This transmitter is Futaba trainer compatible which means you will have your own buddy box which saves reliance on the club’s buddy boxes (if they have any) and means less time is lost swapping transmitters etc. However this is not a requirement, just a (very much recommended) optional extra. Note that the Hitec does not have dual rates, but you do not need these for a buddy-box slave. A similar Futaba 6EXA is in the region of £60 + cable. Contact Andy at Scoonie Hobbies for latest price.

Note that both transmitter and receiver need about 16 hours charge before going flying – even if the model has not flown since the last charge, and especially if you have just bought it. Ni-cads discharge over time and will be unsafe to use even after a couple of days.

DO NOT BUY A 27Mhz radio set. That band is used by R/C cars and CB radio therefore the chance of interference is too high. 35Mhz is the band for RC aircraft. You will not be allowed to fly on 27Mhz on most sites. 40Mhz is also unavailable for aircraft.

Most shops will give you a discount on proof of a club membership. Check out the "Links" page on my web site.

Finally, I seriously recommend you but a box to keep it in. A camera case will do the job, or a tupperware container if really pushed. Keep & use the polystyrene the transmitter came in or pack the box with foam. Work on the principal the the tranny is only out of the box when you have the frequency peg, and you will not go far wrong.

CRYSTALS
A transmitter's frequency is set by its crystal. Each crystal has a frequency and a channel number on it. Check with your prospective club to see which channels are free before buying the crystals.

Only one person can fly on one channel at a time, otherwise interference occurs and the model will crash - unfortunately you have no control over where the crash will ocour ie in the field, on the nearby road, 4 miles away in the nearby village etc.

The offending person pays for the repair or replacement to the damaged plane. You know which channels are currently flying by checking with the peg-board in use at the flying site. If the frequency peg is not on the board then someone I using it.  (Note this system is not universal over all the clubs so check to see which system is in use before flying).

PROPELLORS
Propellors are Dangerous! Very Dangerous!! They are the most dangerous things imaginable. The go round at speeds up to 15000 RPM and can remove fingers like they were not there!!!!

Propellors 1,Fingers 0

Propellors 2,Fingers 0

SIMULATORS
If you are a computer owner, you might want to get one of the simulators to practice with. These really are worth the money. Again, don't buy one until you have spoken to the club. The Real Flight one is very good, but needs a 3D video card. The CSM simulator will run on most PC's and is about £50. However, it has poor graphics and no sound control. A good, cheap option is the FMS simulator. This is a free simulator downloadable from the Internet, and needs a cable (£15 to £30 depending on spec) to connect to your transmitter. See the “Downloads” page for details. RC Plane Master is a similar free download, also requiring a cable. There are a few commercial ones such as the Ikarus Easy Fly which comes with a controller or can be used with your own transmitter and cable. The Reflex XTR is a new one on the market but I have not evaluated it yet.

HOW LONG

Do not buy anything until you have decided on a club to join, since they will have their own preferences for beginners. When finding a club, ask about their training set up i.e.

1. How many instructors do they have and what are their qualifications
2. Does the club have a trainer aircraft?
3. How many buddy boxes do they have?
4. How many other novices are getting instruction?

Getting to the stage where you can fly solo is purely dependant on how much flying time you can commit to. One guy did it in 3 months, some guys will never do it. The bloke who did it in 3 months also did some serious time with the simulator as well. Aim for 30 flights at 3 to 4 flights a day and you won’t go far wrong.

 TECHNICAL AND BUILDING
A servo moves a control surface and the engine throttle. You need 4 for most trainers. When you buy a transmitter package, it comes with a receiver, battery, 4 servos, charger, but check with the club to find out which crystal to buy.

 Use cyno to put the hinges into the aileron but use epoxy to glue them into the wing. If you use cyno you will not have time to line the ailerons up before it sets. Cyno is a superglue so be careful. Also, it does not like foam so be careful. Alternatively, use the new cyno-friendly hinges with the slot in them. The gap between the control surface and the wing / tail etc should be as small as possible.

COLOUR SCHEMES
Think very carefully about this. You will be flying against a grey sky, or a blue sky, or a blue sky with white clouds. The top and bottom of your model must be very distinctly different, and both must stand out against the various backdrops.

A good colour scheme would be all-red underneath with possibly white on top, with 300mm wide red wing tips. It is a bad idea to have the same colour top and bottom (i.e. the Ripmax Nova).

This has a token red stripe underneath one wing but is completely useless so I recovered it in pink. If you have white underneath, try adding some 200mm wide black invasion stripes on the underside of the wing. Fluorescent pink wings and metallic blue fuselage make a good combo.

INSURANCE

I recommend the Scottish Aeromodellers Association. The benefits of joining are:-
Their magazine keeping you informed of activities in Scotland
Members can attend the free training weekends
Members can advertise on the "For Sale" page of the web site
SAA and BMFA recognised insurance.
Members can visit any other club and fly, as well as take part in national or inter-club competitions without insurance problems

Check http://www.saaweb.org.uk for the current membership fees.

A Family Membership is available to family members only and shall provide for 1 Full Membership and any number of Junior Memberships residing at the same address and joining through the same club. To join the SAA, contact the club secretary, or apply directly using the downloadable application form from their web site.

You can join as a Country member if you do not wish to join a club. You are insured from the time the SAA membership secretary receives your money – not from when you receive your card. The membership year runs from 1st Jan until 31st Dec. If you join after the 1st October your insurance runs to the end of the following year.

GLIDING
An easy way for kids to get started is definitely slope soaring where they get lots of flying, low re-building time due to crashes and it is above all, safe. They are also nowhere near propellers which is the main thing. They will also make better pilots because they have learned on gliders and can progress to thermal gliding or power.

The new EPP (Expanded polypropylene) models are virtually indestructible. I would recommend the Synergy from Phoenix Model Products (Telephone/Fax: +44 1626 332287) or Fun Start (both around £50) or the Bullit from Scoonie Hobbies in Kircaldy, 01592-651792. These are fairly quick to assemble and do not really involve much building.

If you do not live near a hill, consider the Eppi-soar from Phoenix, with a tow line or mini-bungee.

This is the cheapest entry level and is 2 channel i.e. rudder (the vertical bit at the back) and elevator (the horizontal bit at the back) http://www.phoenixmp.com/models/fun-start.htm

This next level needs a 4 channel radio and 2 extra servos. The extra servos go on the wings and give better control. http://www.phoenixmp.com/models/synergy.htm Get one with ailerons as it make life so much easier. Different instructors might recommend different models so check with him first.

You will need warm clothes and good shoes/boots if doing regularly but there is no harm in going up for a look. The problem with slope soaring of course is that you have to climb the hill first, however think of the exercise.

Here are a few web sites for you:

http://www.saaweb.org.uk  - The Scottish Aeromodellers Association

http://www.fvs.care4free.net/fvs.htm - Forth Valley Soarers

http://www.fife-soarers.co.uk - Fife Soarers

KIDS AND AEROMODELLING.

Please note that most clubs will not be used as a baby-sitting service, and expect 1 parent to be in attendance at all times. The child protection act is in place to protect both adults and children, and members could put themselves at risk if left alone at a flying site with a junior member. Even when they are aged 16 there could be problems. I have seen flying sites site go from very busy to empty in half an hour when the rain sets in. It would not be fair on club members if they had to wait with your son /daughter for 2 or 3 hours until they were collected. Neither would it be acceptable for adults to go and leave them alone at the site. It is also recommended that a junior member does not visit the workshop or garage of a club member unless accompanied by a parent.

WARNING & DISCLAIMER

You are hereby advised that aeromodelling is a sport which contains risks. You enter a model aircraft flying site your own risk. Neither an individual, nor a club, nor the national body will be held responsible for any injury or damage to visitors or their property as a result of failing to seek safety related advice before visiting the flying site, or for failing to adhere to that advice when at the flying site. To make you visit to a flying site as pleasant as possible I would advise that you:

·         Contact the secretary of the club to arrange a visit.

·         remain in the car park area until your designated host meets you.

·         ask for a safety briefing

·         act on your host’s instructions at all times.

·         do not approach any model which has the engine running.

·         do not stand in front of or in line with a rotating propeller.

·         do not stand behind a jet or ducted fan engine

·         do not engage anyone in discussion who is preparing a model. Wait until they acknowledge your presence.

·         do not engage anyone in discussion if they are flying. Wait until they land.

INSTRUCTOR’S INDEMNITY
I
t is common practice amongst model flying clubs that neither the Instructor nor the club are held liable for any damage to a model which is being flown on your behalf or during training sessions. You are therefore advised to ensure that the person you are entrusting your model to is an approved club instructor.

Most club training is based on the Scottish Aeromodellers Association's training scheme, which is covered in their 80-page booklet issued free to all members. As a novice, a pilot cannot fly on his or her own or unsupervised. This is a major drain on a club's human resources, and the driving force behind a good training scheme. The objective is to get a pilot flying solo as soon as possible. Basically, there are 3 levels of proficiency that an aeromodeller can achieve.

BRONZE.
This is the first level. A pilot is expected to conduct himself safely on the ground, to be able to take-off, fly a simple circuit and land. He should understand and adhere to the basic safety issues.

This achievement allows the pilot to fly unsupervised, and enables him to visit and fly at other clubs with confidence and without supervision. Gaining a bronze does not mean he is a fully-fledged pilot - only that he can now start to really practice and learn without requiring someone to stand beside him all the time. It allows the pilot to develop his skills by gradually flying more advanced manoeuvres. With a bronze, a pilot can enter all local club competitions where the event is not promoted as a "Public" event. Target time:- 6 - 9 months after starting.

SILVER.
This is the second level. This requires a better understanding of safety aspects, and requires the pilot to fly a more advanced schedule of manoeuvres. This achievement allows the pilot to fly at public air displays, and national / international competitions where the public may be present. "Silver" is not a requirement for normal club flying, but an optional extra which pilots can attempt, or not, as they wish. Club instructors are expected to be "Silver" holders where possible. Target time:- 18 - 24 months after starting

GOLD.
This is the highest level. It requires a better understanding of safety aspects, and requires the pilot to fly a more advanced schedule of manoeuvres than Silver. Again this is an optional extra and is basically a personal achievement.

When do I get my Spitfire?

Flying model aircraft is not difficult. It is not easy, but with practice and commitment you can get there fairly easily. There are 3 different types of models available. First is the high wing trainer which is very stable, very forgiving and the one all beginners start with. Second is the low-wing model. It is more aerobatic, faster, less forgiving. Then there are the mid-wing models. These are VERY manoeuvrable and definitely not for the beginner. Aircraft like the Spitfire, Hurricane etc all have different flying characteristics and it will be a few years before you have the confidence to fly one.  A typical learning curve would be:

1st Year. This is spent learning to fly safely, learning good pit discipline, start-up procedures etc. Most of the flying is basic circuits, followed by the standard "Bronze" circuit. Simple manoeuvres, take-off and landing are attempted. Most people can achieve their Bronze in the first year, depending on the effort put in.

 2nd Year. You are now flying in most weather. The wind no longer holds you in fear. You use it like a canvas to paint pictures on. You're confidence grows by the flight. Loops, rolls, split-S, - you're tackling them all. Your flying can still be a bit rough but you are getting there. Most people will now have a Bronze and some are practicing for Silver. Your high wing model can do most manoeuvres but in the second half of the year you are probably looking at your first low-wing model. Towards the end of the second year you should be able to fly the "Silver" schedule and be looking for a test date.

3rd Year - the fun begins. You should now have a low wing plane. They are faster, more aerobatic and a lot more fun. You might be looking at your first semi-scale Spitfire / Mustang / Hurricane etc. If you do not have one, and you want one, you really should be practicing for Silver this year. If interested, you are starting to enter scale or aerobatics competitions.

Then one day your head swells: the chairman wants you as an instructor. When you have done a take-off with someone else's pride-and-joy, you will never look back.

Tom Laird

Last modified

Rev 2.6 5/7/2005 Various updates
Rev 2.5 19/5/2004 Various updates
Rev 2.4 29/12/2003 Added Instructor’s Indemnity section
Rev 2.3 14/10/2003 Added Futaba 6EXA
Rev 2.2 08/8/2002 Minor changes
Rev 2.1 24/7/2002 Added Internet section.